Skincare shelves are full of words like hydrating, moisturising, nourishing and replenishing. Behind the labels are three simple ideas that make choosing and layering products much easier.
Dry or dehydrated?
- Dry skin lacks oil (lipids). It tends to feel rough or flaky.
- Dehydrated skin lacks water. It can be oily and still feel tight or look dull.
Many people have a bit of both, and it can change with the seasons. See winter skincare.
The three types of moisturising ingredient
1. Humectants: they attract water
Humectants draw water into the upper layers of the skin. Common examples are glycerin, hyaluronic acid and urea. They work best on slightly damp skin and should be followed by something that keeps the water in.
2. Emollients: they soften and smooth
Emollients fill gaps between skin cells so the surface feels softer. Examples are ceramides, fatty acids and many plant oils. They help support the skin barrier.
3. Occlusives: they seal
Occlusives form a protective layer on the surface that slows water loss. Examples are petrolatum, shea butter and waxes. They are especially helpful at night and in cold weather.
Where does facial oil fit?
Most facial oils act as emollients and, to a degree, as light occlusives. They do not add water, so apply them on top of a water-based product or moisturiser. They are also an ideal glide for massage with a tool such as the Rebel Smooth.
A simple layering order
- Cleanse. See our guide.
- Apply a humectant serum or essence to damp skin.
- Follow with a moisturiser.
- Seal with a few drops of facial oil in the evening, or sunscreen in the morning.
Common mistakes
- Using a humectant alone in very dry air, which may draw water out of the skin.
- Piling on too many products at once.
- Choosing heavy products for oily or acne-prone skin. Look for light, non-comedogenic options and ask a dermatologist if unsure.
The takeaway: water in, softness on, seal over. Three steps, one comfortable face.
This article is for general information and does not replace medical advice. If you have eczema, rosacea or very sensitive skin, ask your dermatologist which products suit you.
